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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.